house design kit


and again we made this up out of 2" x 8"sbecause we have a 8" log. we have our 2" x 2" spline in there and whatwe did is made this door jamb up, the buck up, our rough opening height which is 6'-101/2" and then we put a 3/4" board on the bottom. what we recommend that you do is pack yourbuck and door up, whatever you're putting down for a finish floor on the inside yourhouse. now, what we decided here is we're going tohave some hardwood flooring going down so i put a 3/4" board on the bottom so our roughopening stays the same. and what i did on the inside i left this backabout an inch so i can actually slip my hardwood flooring underneath the sill of our door jamb.

again, we're going to run a couple, nice 1/4"beads on the floor and then also we're going to run a 1/4" bead on the side of our 2" x2", again that's going to help seal into our log, we're going to slip that into place. and we're going to screw it down to make surewe get a good seal on to the floor. now what i've done is just taken a couplepieces of scrap 1/2" osb and we're going to put that on our buck here for a brace. ok, now we have our door buck nice and plumbfor sideways, now what we want to do is plumb it down in and out. there, now we have our door jamb plumb bothsideways and the in and out.

now, our logs are just going to follow thatup we're going to end up with a nice straight plumb and level wall. okay, now we're going to put our log on theother side the window here and again we're going to put a little bit of caulk on thebuck, also on the dado. and we're going to slip that log right intothere and we will screw that down. now, what we want to do is where we have oursaw cuts, our kerfs into the jam here, we want to nail that into the log and all you'regoing to do is use a 16-penny spike with a washer on it, go right through the saw kerfand that will hold out log into place. and if the log has any movement, that sawkerf lets it move so the door and or window

will not move. now, we're ready to put our next roll on,we're going to slip this one in the place and all we have to do is take out this tongueand groove where this log passes. so, all you do is mark it, take a chisel andjust chisel out that tongue on there so this log fits right down tight just like that. part of the package what we send is a weatherstrip, a foam weatherstrip, you're going to put that right on top of this outside tongue,right to the end here. and then on this one, we're going to caulkit. again, we just want to run a nice quarterbead of caulk on top of that tongue, and again

on our spine here and also on the jam andwe're going to run this right across where a pass corner comes out. and, we're going to take the log and set itright into place just like that. now, on these butt and pass corners what youwant to do, when you screw it down, you want to make sure, you get a screw from this passinto the log below. that's what ties it together just like youwould do on the top plate. now we have our second row started, now we'regoing to put our weatherstrip. and again on this log here, we're going toput a small bead of caulk. we're going to put our 2" x 4" in here forour spline with a bead of caulk on it fit

in there, just like that and then anotherbead of caulk on the face side of our spline. we're going to set our next log right intoit, just like that. now, on this one here, what i have done istaken in and routered in an outlet. again, what i did is just made a very simplejig up. i have an outline for my box, fastened thatto the log, routered in my hole the right depth for my box that's going to fit in therejust like that. and again, now we're going to drill a holethrough here, through our routered out space and into the floor system and that's wherethey will loop the wires. on this particular window, we're going tohave about an inch and a half, on top of this

log here. the rest of the log would have to be cut outrather than cutting out all that log. we're just going to put a 2" x 8" on top ofthis log. our window term is going to cover it, so it'snot a problem, sometimes rather than cutting that log all the way out, you might need toput 3/4" inch, 1/2 " inch, 2" s on top of here rather than cutting out whole log outthat's the better way to approach it . now, what i have done because we have an inchand a half going on here when i routered out my dado for the spline i left an inch anda half on here so we don't have a hole. and what we're going to do is put this login, we're going to have our inch and a half

piece go right on here like this and the logsgoing to bump up to it. now, again to make sure we don't have anygaps what we're going to do is caulk this before we put our 2" x 8" on there. we're going to put some caulking in this hole,we're going to fill it up, about a quarter of the way. we're going to push our spline down into thatso we seal it real well. and then we're going to run a nice quarterinch bead of caulk, where our 2" x 8" filler is going to go. we're going to put our 2" x 8" filler in there,we're going to keep it even with the inside

and the outside the log, just like that andthen we're going to spike this 2" x 8" right down to the log, just like that. we're going to slip our other log into it,fasten that down. i'm going to take and caulk on each one ofthese logs and also a caulk into the dado across the bottom. on the other side, into the dado, on the faceof the log. again, we want to make sure that we seal thisup very tight as we're putting it together. now, we're going to slip our window buck rightin, just like that we're going to check it for plumb.

we're plumb and level, i've already got mybrace on here, what i'm going to do again is fasten this buck into the log and i'm goingto run a couple braces down and plumb it in and out. there, now we have our window plumbed in andout and also sideways. now, our logs can follow this buck right upand our wall be nice level and plumb. we're going to continue this up till wereover the top of the window. next, we're going to go and install our windowour flashing and our trim.

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